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Coco Chanel
10 questions · Society & Everyday
Gabrielle Chanel is born in 1883 into poverty; after her mother's death she grows up in an orphanage, where nuns teach her to sew. The strict black-and-white habits and the plain arches of the convent architecture would later resurface in her fashion. As a young woman she sings in cabarets: it is there, so the story goes, that she is given the nickname "Coco".
With the backing of wealthy lovers she first opens a hat shop, then fashion boutiques in Deauville and Paris. Her idea is radical: she frees the female body from the corset and designs comfortable, clean-lined clothes: often from jersey, a cheap fabric until then used only for underwear. Before long she defines a wholly new look of simple, sporty elegance.
In 1921 she launches her perfume "Chanel Nº 5": one of the first perfumes to bear a designer's name and still one of the most famous in the world. Marilyn Monroe made it immortal with the line that at night she wore only "a few drops of Nº 5". Equally legendary is the "little black dress": Chanel turned black, until then reserved for mourning, into the epitome of understated elegance.
Her life had darker chapters too: during the German occupation of Paris she had a relationship with a Nazi officer, which draws criticism to this day. After the war she withdrew at first, but staged a comeback in the 1950s and worked until her death in 1971. Her fashion house Chanel endures today, with its famous double-C as the emblem of a woman who built, from nothing, one of the most influential empires in the history of fashion.
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